Easy riding today, and that’s a blessing since we’re both feeling a bit worn down. No wind or rain, just heavy cloud cover and wet pavement. Level terrain, mostly. First half of the ride was on quiet roads among farm animals, mostly cows. The second half was on a beautiful dedicated bike way that (unexpectedly) took us all the way to our destination city.

Stats

Distance: 39.3 miles

Elapsed time: 5 hours 30 min

Average speed: 11.7 mph

Riding was more pleasant today (no rain, among other factors). Still, each of the northward riding days has seemed to require more effort than the earlier parts of this voyage. A highlight today was traveling through the gorge near the headwaters of the Loire. We almost were alone on the road, including the grounds of this fine chateau, where we took our lunch break.

Stats

Distance: 40.0 miles

Elapsed time: 6 hours 20 min

Average speed: 9.3 mph

The weather triple threat: wind, rain, and cold temperatures. We had them all today. Wind reported at 10 mph when we started and 16 mph when we arrived. As always, from the north (= into our faces). Rain showers started an hour into the ride and the strongest was during a brisk descent on a high traffic road an hour before arrival. Coldest temperatures we’ve had in France by far: ranging in the high 40s to mid 50s (degrees F). So, this was more of an adventure than a pleasure. Good news: predicted weather is consistently better for the coming week.

Stats

Distance: 35.0 miles

Elapsed time: 5 hours 30 minutes

Average speed: 9.7 mph

Autumn has arrived in France. Today was cool and the afternoon was rainy. (But, no wind!) We made at least 4 significant climbs (> 150 m each) and are learning to appreciate that the French terrain is more than the Pyrenees and the Alps. We have left the Rhône behind, crossing again at Vienne. Tomorrow we reach the Loire. The last two photos are from the bed and breakfast where we are staying tonight, Le Clos du Perret.

Stats

Distance: 41.7 miles

Elapsed time: 6 hours 30 min

Average speed: 9.5 mph

More wind to slow us down. But this was a programmed short day, so we finished riding by lunch. We visited Palais Ideal, a solo achievement in naive architecture/art created over a 33 year period by the rural postman Cheval. Echos of Gaudí?

Stats

Distance: 27.6 miles

Elapsed time: 3 hours 35 min

Average speed: 10.2 mph

The theory of a medium easy day became the reality of a hard day of cycling. Why? A travel distance of 45 miles by road became 56 miles along the meandering ViaRhona cycle path we chose to follow. More importantly, the light morning breeze grew into a stiff northerly wind, such that when we were exposed, as along the Rhône heading north, we had hard work to maintain a pace of even 10 mph. Still, we are enjoying excellent weather overall; and daily scenes continue to surprise and delight us.

Stats

Distance: 56.0 miles

Elapsed time: 7 hours 30 min

Average speed: 10.1 mph

Early start and slow progress through the Ardeche gorge. Great scenic views. The 20 miles of riding through the gorge seemed never level and included a challenging 2-mile climb at a steady 8-10 percent grade.

Stats

Distance: 29.8 miles

Elapsed time: 5 hours 30 min

Average speed: 9.3 mph

Overall, pleasant riding on a pleasant day. We are staying at Le Belvedere along the Ardeche River. We have a second floor room with a large balcony overlooking the Ardeche gorge.

Stats

Distance: 36.7 miles

Elapsed time: 4 hours 30 min

Average speed: 11.4 mph

Phase 3: We begin the return to Paris. Today’s ride had considerable variety. We rode into a headwind for much of the ride. The afternoon through Nimes and to Uzes was heavily trafficked. Riding north with the sun at our backs was a nice change. Morning temperature was definitely cool. Our accommodation here is amazing — spacious, historic, and comfortable.

Stats

Distance: 55.9 miles

Elapsed time: 7 hours 5 min

Average speed: 11.0 mph

Mistral wind had us concerned, but it is supposed to die down from today’s 25 mph by tomorrow morning, when we face a 50 mile ride almost due north. Today it mostly blew us southward to this understated yet pleasant Mediterranean coastal town. Lots of Spanish influence here. Popular symbols: black bull, white horse, and pink flamingo.

Stats

Distance: 29.5 miles

Elapsed time: 2 hours 30 min

Average speed: 12.8 mph